![]() ![]() Missing, incorrect, or corrupted boot loader Switch RX and TX, as it’s sometimes incorrectly labeled on modules.But here are some general aspects that you can always check: The cause can of course be best defined if you know the error message. There are endless possibilities for errors. ![]() This is standard equipment you should have anyway. ![]() But I would recommend to invest in a USB-to-TTL module. ![]() This also works, if you have an Arduino UNO. For this purpose choose “Upload” in the Arduino IDE, wait until the compilation is finished and release the reset key when it wants to upload (this is when the message in white font appears): And if I don’t have a USB-to-TTL module? It is not important when you press the button, but the decisive factor is when you release it. If you don’t have one, you have to reset manually using the reset button on the Pro Mini. This is exactly what the DTR connection does. You have to reset the Pro Mini before the upload. Select and upload the sketch – and that’s it.choose “Arduino Pro or Pro Mini” as board.choose the right port which is connected to USB-to-TTL module.Here, for example, everything is OK: Upload with DTRįirst, the Arduino Pro Mini is connected to the USB-to-TTL module as shown: You can check the operational readiness of the module in the device manager of your Windows. They can be found on the net without any problems. If everything works, you may still need a driver. In addition, the modules use different chips, e.g. It’s more comfortable to use the ones with DTR pin as you’ll see soon. They differ essentially in the format of the USB port, in the output voltage (3.3 and / or 5 V) and in the presence or absence of a DTR (Data Terminal Ready) pin. Sketch upload via Arduino IDEįor the Sketch Upload you need a USB-to-TTL converter module like one of the models shown here: You can also connect a 5 V power supply source directly to the VCC pin, but it should be a regulated one. For example, it is suitable to operate the board with a 9 V block battery. Regardless of the exact supply voltage, I measured stable 5 V at the VCC pin. Very convenient is that you can operate the Pro Mini via the raw input with voltages between 5 and 12 V. Why they don’t stick to the grid measure is a mystery to me. Unfortunately, with both models you can’t conect A4 and A5 directly to a PCB circuit board. For the models shown above, they are located at the narrow end next to the reset button (left model) and above A2 and A4 (right model). In addition, the boards differ partly in the layout, especially in the position of the pins A4 (SDA) and A5 (SCL), which are required for the I2C communication. At Amazon you get the boards for roughly 3 Euros. I myself have only tried 328P /5V models. If you use 3.3 V components such as certain sensors, the 3.3 V variant can also be of interest for you. If you have developed your project with the UNO, then the 328P / 5V variant is most suitable, as full compatibility is guaranteed. Programming of the Arduino Pro Mini is very convenient! Various versionsįirst, there are four different versions of the microcontroller used, the operating voltage and the clock rate: I will first talk about the different versions of the Pro Mini, then about the sketch upload using the USB-to-TTL module and finally focus on trouble shooting. If you want to immortalize your project firmly in wire and solder, you usually don’t do this using an Arduino UNO, but choose either an ATtiny or ATmega microcontroller or a small board such as the Arduino Nano or the Arduino Pro Mini which is described here. ![]()
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